Cleaning your Filter Wheel


Having a good cleaned filters and or the lenses is highly important for the benefit of quality images, the example below shows a set of flats stacked to create a master Flats, the dust particles are present everywhere impossible to eliminate. Its time now to clean all the filter wheel and filters.



















New Takahashi CCA 250 

My new Takahashi CCA250 is here in my apt in Spain, it has been 4 months waiting for building & delivery.

Specifications

Takahashi CCA 250 mm Tri-Focal Astrograph Telescope OTA

  • The Takahashi CCA-250 Tri-Focal Astrograph functions at f/5, f/8, and f/3.9 (with 6345 Flattener) and has an aperture of 250 mm (9.84")
  • The CCA-250 Tri-Focal Astrograph was produced by Takahashi to replace the Baker Ritchey Chretien BRC-250
  • The CCA-250 rear assembly includes a large camera rotator and can operate an electric rotator for remote operation
  • The CCA-250 Tri-Focal Astrograph design includes a carbon fiber tube allowing for light weight and stable focus
  • The CCA-250 by Takahashi has a D-series (Losmandy) -compatible dovetail for easy mounting.





QSI 632 to Takahashi 106ed & Reducer 0.73x 

Back Focus Distance




Building the Image Train


Reducer 0.73x

Setup

Reducer & Extension made from PreciseParts

Setup with Reducer & Extension

New make to measure OAG for the SX Lodestar

Extension made to measure from PreciseParts




Color Ratio Calculator

To test the relative color balance of your imaging system, you will need to image a solar analog star and measure the variation in brightness through each filter.  This is easily done.  Imager Bart Declerq recommends imaging an out-of-focus G-type star, preferably near the zenith.  If no star is available so high in the sky, an atmospheric extinction correction factor can be applied using the chart shown in the next section. 

Measurement of the star brightness can be done using the Information tool in  Maxim DL function in other image processing software.

20 second exposure

Take one exposure through each color filter, red, green, and blue.

Choose an exposure that yields a brightness between 10,000 to 50,000 ADU(bright enough for a good signal but not saturated).

Use the identical exposure for each filter.

Measure the average brightness of the out-of-focus star in each image.  The value should be slightly different based on the characteristics of the CCD chip and filter set.  For example, the measured value of the star might be as follows:

Red Value:  19,000
Green Value:  25,000
Blue Value:  14,000

The color ratios are determined as follows:

Red Correction Factor = 1/(Red Value/Maximum Value)
Green Correction Factor = 1/(Green Value/Maximum Value)
Blue Correction Factor = 1/(Blue Value/Maximum Value)

In the above example, the green value is the maximum value so the correction factors would be:

Red Factor = 1/(19,000/25,000) = 1/0.76 = 1.32
Green Factor = 1/(25,000/25,000) = 1/1 = 1.00
Blue Factor = 1/(14,000/25,000) = 1/0.56 = 1.79


These value yield the 1.3:1.0:1.8 RGB ratio used on the Whirlpool Galaxy example image above.  Most cameras have the greatest sensitivity in green or red and therefore green or red is normally the basis for comparison, but some cameras (notably the popular ST-2000) have higher blue sensitivities and might yield a ratio more like 1.7:1.3:1.0 in RGB.


You might use exposure times of 130 minutes, 100 minutes, and 180 minutes in red, green, and blue, respectively, to obtain proper color balance. 
using the green (1) as the base

Green = 1
Blue = 1.8
Red = 1.3

If taking 10 frames x 600 second, I use the same ratio to apply the difference exposure time.
For example

Green =  1 = 10 x600 seconds  = 6000 /60 = 100 Mins
Blue = 1.8  = 10 x 1080 seconds or 18 x 600  = 10800 =180 mins
Red = 1.3  = 13 x 600 = 7800 sec = 130 mins

Summery
Color  Factor
Green                   Blue                       Red
1                             1.8                          1.3

Instead of changing the color ratio you can change the exposure time which will do the same effect as changing the ratio

Exposure
100 min                180min                 130min





Newspaper Article about my Heart Nebula Image
(26-10-2015)




Borg 77EDII - 77mm F/4.3 Refractor OTA with Canon 60Da



Final Part of the Set-up
Had to change the bracket holding the Takahashi 106 to this black bracket which can host on top the Borgs 77ed bracket


This image shows how you can attached the three scopes in vertical. The mount can easily hold this load as they are probably balance, you would need to adjust the counter weights both in declination and right ascension.    





Both Cameras connected, the SX694 CCD to the Taka, the Canon 60Da to the Borg











Part 1
This good refractor has been with me some time unused, given that is a very small version of the Takasashi 106ED (q), its the poor relative as I put it. But why waist it. I going to placed it as a piggyback to my setup, so I had to order a new set of bracket /rings holders. While I wait for its delivery I started to prepare the imaging train.

Its back focus distance is 55mm from the reducer to the Canon chip. This is achieved quit easy by placing a Canon T-Ring adapter (5005) that screw directly to the rear end of the reducer, and that's it. Lucky I have T-Rings for all SDLR main brands , I used them when I had a public competition a few years back, basically I invited the public to bring their cameras and use the society's telescopes to take images to planets.Great enjoyment.

Any way, back to business, the following images shows the Borg scope, and the 60Da, with the T-ring.


Canon 60Da

In 2012 Canon came out with the EOS 60Da, a replacement for the 20Da. The long-wavelength filter in the 60Da transmits 1.5 times more hydrogen-alpha light than a 20Da, and 3 times more than a stock 60D.


There is a lot of interest in Canon's 60Da astrophotographic camera and questions about how it performs for deep-sky astrophotography of red emission nebula compared to a non-modified camera, as well as to a stock camera that has been modified. With 18 millions pixels and a 332sq mm senso, this is quit a chip.















Part 2


Installation of Motor Focus to the 2" focuser. Its a Feather Touch connected to the Hub which in turn connects to the Laptop


Hub connecting the motor (outlet), Current (inlet) and cable to PC

The Software to run the focuser

Connecting the PC







New Starlight Xpress H694

This is my new Starlight Xpress H694, 6 millions pixels, ideal for the Takahashi 106ed (q) is a taken over from my faithful QSI632 3 millions pixel. The filter wheel is also new taking 5 filters in the filter disk.












Takahashi 106ed Back Focus Distance